Will fit post mount with adapter; mm rotor recommended will not fit rim brakes Compatible with downtube shifters Chainring fit, max. Tire Fit: c x 42mm, b x 47mm Size 42cm of the disc frame is NOT designed for 26" wheels like the rim brake model Water bottle bosses: 2 sets Racks mounts: Low rider front pannier rack, mini front rack, rear rack.
First off we are happy you are looking for a bike, any bike. Just make sure it suits your needs and fits your body. Advantages over vintage: 1. You can use modern gearing like 9-speed or speed cassettes.
Vintage mixtes were designed for 5 or 6-speed freewheels which are harder to find and also don't provide gearing for hills. Materials may be cheaper, might be high tensile steel or plain gauge CrMo, which makes it heavier to take upstairs. Also they are flexier since they don't have the larger diameter thin wall tubes of the Buena Vista. This is a bike you can ride long distances enjoyably even with loaded panniers.
The Soma comes in 4 sizes to suit folks 4'10" to 6' 2" 4 The BV fits modern Disc Brakes: Better for speed control and wet weather stopping Advantage over new cheaper mixtes: 1.
Materials on competitor's bikess may be cheaper, might be high tensile steel or plain gauge CrMo, which makes it heavier to take upstairs. Re: IGH inefficiencies - I have a feeling that those who ride IGHs don't care about outright speed, or don't know what a faster bike feels like so it's ok or just don't want to deal with derailleur maintenance. I recently rode a transport bike I bought for my brother because it has all the cool stuff: hub generator, IGH, blah blah. It's got a very stiff, efficient alu frame.
It felt like riding through sand, there was so much drag. The other main mechanical inefficiency is the frame. As a general comment with some applicability here, though you might think you're in the same position while comparing A to B, most definitely you aren't. When you get hooked up to a giant Retul machine that measures your power output with sensors all over your body that measure angles, you realize very, very minor changes effect how much power you can create. Things like a 5mm saddle adjustment in height or setback can make your effort less taxing.
I remember the owner of VO discouraging someone on a comment thread from putting b tires on the VO mixte mmmm. I am going to use c on mine because I personally prefer how they look on a very classic mixte. You like the all wheels no body all legs no torso look, huh? I saw an article in Bicycle Quarterly about the energy output needed for different versions of the 8 speed IGH.
It quoted data from Shimano plus some BQ measurements. If nobody comes up with the reference before then I will post it when I get home tonight. I'm looking for an IGH solution for next winter commuting. Harris recommends not using the 8 speed due to freezing grease lubricant. That leaves a three speed or the new 11 speed, both of which use oil. The three speed is a problem for my fitness and knees, I need to spin.
The problem is I would very much like to see some experience based reviews of the 11 speed. It is an expansive experiment. Anyone using the Shimano 11 speed IGH? Thanks, RJD. Can't seem to find it. Regarding IGH inefficiency: Though I love my NuVinci N and find it indispensable for everyday cycling in all weathers, there are some days when it feels like I'm slogging through quicksand.
But to me, the utility outweighs any inefficiencies. Others are fully entitled to their differing opinions. Kirsten - for a bike that is meant to be used as an urban transportation bicycle, I agree entirely. Somervillian, Looks like your wife is going to be really happy, that's a great build. As usual a great review and critique by Veloria as well. GR would have an IGH if she didn't have a designated muck scraper - me. I enjoy restoring it on a periodic basis.
Plus she gets to experience the New Bike Feeling every few months. When I get on and off, it is by standing on the pedal, and lifting myself on or off of the seat with the height from pedal to seat remaining constant independent from wheel size. Oh well Erik - Not everyone can mount a bicycle in that manner. Some need to be able to reach the ground with the tip of a toe in order to feel comfortable stopping and starting. I, for one, am of that category. Smaller wheels lower the bicycle's minimal saddle height.
Erik-- the B wheels with 42mm Hetres lower the bike about 9mm compared with C wheels with 32mm tires, the maximum width tire you can fit on this bike. But nominally, the bike was designed for 28mm wide tires. Therefore the bike as built up sits about 5mm lower than it was designed to. To be fair, for the mm to matter your saddle has to basically sit on top of the seat tube, as it were. I think the coolest thing about B conversions is that they have virtually no theoretical drawbacks, only positives, except for the "cost," which does not apply to new builds.
TCO--it helps when you're a borderline case 2. I'm buying wheels for the white buena vista in 58cm I bought yesterday. Anybody have comments on c vs. Specifically would the women on here prefer one over the other?
I'm leaning towards c so the wheels are compatible with our other rides, but thought I would ask. Thanks again! I love that Spanninga Pixeo light - I tried a bolt-mount from cateye on my Raleigh's fender and it just didn't work it was fine on the rack , but this one is designed just for that purpose.
I wish they were still in-stock on VO and came in a retro version. I'm with Velouria on the mounting issue. I can't have one foot on a pedal, push off and swing onto the bike like so many others do. I have permanent injuries that keep me closer to the ground. Yay for squaty frames. I see the blog has moved on to more philosophical subject matter, but as promised here is the Bicycle Quarterly reference to Shimano 8 speed IGH performance: Autumn issue, page 69 documents increased resistance in the indirect gears, especially 4th.
Ah, I knew I saw it somewhere, and that's it. I will scan it and post tomorrow. Since 5th is direct drive and has less resistance, the point of that graph was to illustrate how it may be easier to pedal in 5th rather than in 4th when you'd rather be in 4th because the overall output is more efficient in 5th than in 4th. This is what I was alluding to above.
Scan to come tomorrow. Ah, and to further explain my uncertainty as to where I saw the graph: it's in BQ, but it's an official Shimano-supplied graph. Interesting, it shows exactly what I had mentioned above about 5th gear being the most most mechanically efficient due to that gear being direct drive. The lower end Alfine hub shows the biggest efficiency drops in the other gears, while the Nexus red-band hub shows much smaller efficiency drops, due to the use of higher quality needle bearings.
Potential drawbacks to b conversions: -in the case of c frames that are already designed for fat tires, the BB drop may be too low, and brake reach may become a hassle. This is not the case with smaller-clearance c frames. The little bit of mechanical inefficiency in an IGH is not the sort of thing that a commuter can seriously gripe about.
I suspect SV has it right when he mentioned that the steps between the gears are too wide for V to have found a sweet ratio for the climbs. Luckily, you can get both straight and dished IGH cogs in sizes from 13t to 25t although, I've yet to see a 24t.
The old conventional wisdom is that you don't want the direct drive gear to be less than a eg, a 46t chainring and a 23t cog , or the torque might fry your IGH. A fellow on bikeforums claims that he's been running an alfine 8spd in various super-low combinations off-road without issues for over a year, so perhaps they're getting by that problem.
Shimano's 8spd IGHs give a So, you can gear the bike for less overall range, but with less of a gap between gears. Do ppl bemoan the "mechanical inefficiency" of IGHs? And, when racers were looking closely at Rohloff SpeedHubs, those complaints made sense. But, really, if you're riding to work or riding for fun, IGH inefficiency shouldn't even be on your radar.
For those purposes, it's no big deal. First thing I go: what are the values of the y axis? Then Jan goes nuts to say the same thing. I'm sure the presence of real values is too damning so Shimano wisely kept them out.
GRJ-- I didn't read Jan's comments, but I see that I am not alone in coming to the conlusion that the data, in and of itself, has no meaning without knowing not only the units but also the numerical range of the y-axis. But if real numbers are damning, why would Shimano have published this information in the first place.
My reasoning is that less technically savvy people would automatically interpret that graph in the most damning sense-- the natural assumption is that the y-axis represents the widest possible range, i. Naturally, curious folks will want to know how their derailleur set up compares. Cat is then out of the bag.
Mostly I think IGH tech is at its infancy. The chart and peoples' experiences show there is variable resistance depending on what gear you're in. The last thing I want to know is if I drop down one gear on this long climb I will be easier because it's lower, but harder because that gear has more drag.
Shimano engineers: "They don't need to know how much drag there is; let's just draw this simple graph. No need to add fuel to the fire. Oh, well. When I switch to 4th, I can go much faster but at a penalty of getting tired, but it still does not feel less efficient. Gears 2 and 1 I use on hills--which is to say rarely. So I mostly stay in 3 and occasionally 4. And 5 is useless to me. Too high for anything except downhill.
I'd just change the cogs, but I don't want to lose my 3rd direct drive--it would be too low. So in actuality, my 5 speed hub is really a 4 speed hub: 1, 2, 3, 4. And if I am brutally honest, the 2nd gear is pretty useless.
It's rarely low enough for a good hill and way too low for riding against the wind. So my hub is really a 3 speed in all practical sense: 1, 3, 4.
Queue in V's love of 3 speed hubs and indeed the gear distribution matches that of my favourite gears. Weird, huh? I'll have to think about it some more.
Of course, nothing, nothing touches the convenience of my hub and others like it in the winter. I have ice all over my rims and spokes and stuck to my wheels, but the hub works and brakes as well as in the middle of July.
Todd's comment on SV's link should basically be the wiki entry for IGHs except for this: "Drivetrain losses pale in importance to aerodynamics above a certain modest speed, and rolling resistance is also usually more important.
Additionally, while climbing some drag forces like wind resistance become less important, though still very much so, and others like hub drag become more so, as Todd inferred in the paragraph on climbing with an old IGH. Surly Bridge Club Jump to Section: Or, just scroll. Universal Cycles. The number available to ship today is for orders placed by AM Pacific time. Quantities shown are for orders placed now. Choose "Show All Products" to view all available products.
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